Chicago Coin Medieval Madness SE pinball machine

The Medieval Madness Pinball Machine remake is a new production of the great classic game. New electronics, looks and feels the same as original (minus some W logos and Williams Logos). Medieval Madness is widely held to be one of the best pinball machines of all time. This status coupled with the fact only 4,000 of these games were built has driven the resale value of the original game beyond the reach of most pinball collectors. Medieval Madness Pinball Machine Remake. This pinball was recreated to the exacting standards of the original game this remake contains a number of enhanced features not available on the original game, including: modern electronics, fully adjustable color display, all LED lighting, and class D digital audio amplifier. Whether you are a pinball novice or expert, you’ll come to appreciate the games universally appealing gameplay, which includes the exploding castle, motorized drawbridge and two pop-up trolls. Your mission in this multi-ball game is to battle for the kingdom! Step back in time to the middle ages of the 15th century where kingdoms were fought and lost for. Never replace a bulb again! The Medieval Madness Pinball Machine Remake features all LED lighting. Great effort was invested in recreating the warmth and feel of the original incandescent bulbs with the modern reliability of LEDs. MMRs system hardware and software slowly ramp LED brightness up and down to emulate the look of the original incandescent bulbs. Each playfield insert is backlit by a cluster of three LEDs which are driven only to one-third the manufacturers specified maximum brightness. Should any of the three LEDs in a single insert cluster ever fail, the system hardware will automatically increase the brightness of the remaining LEDs to compensate for the failed LED. This redundancy, coupled with the long life of the LEDs, means most owners of the Medieval Madness remake will never replace a single lamp over the games lifetime. The new features menu allows the operators to. Set the display color. Adjust the speed at which LED bulbs ramp up and down. Adjust the strength of coils. Adjust the shaker motor strength; and. Adjust dip switch settings.

Black Hole Pinball Machine, Gottlieb 1981, Good Condition, Working, Many Extras

Working & complete (though part of a subassembly is uninstalled), good condition. Lots of spare parts + parts for making the game more robust. A few months ago, low plays since. I have many more high-res photos & a video. Message me to access them. 1 Game plays fast & strong. All switches, coils, & lamps work (some lamps a bit fussy). 4 A previous owner: ground mods were performed. 5 A previous owner: backbox motor replaced w/ 3 RPM motor. 6 A previous owner: power supply capacitors had been replaced. 7 A previous owner: per PinWiki, remote drive for lower PF lift upkicker modded to use a pop bumper board. 8 Per PinWiki, upgraded 6th pop bumper board–other 5 were already upgraded. 9 Per PinWiki, modded lower PF lamp circuit to use 6.3V #44 or #47 bulbs instead of 28V #313 bulbs. 11 Earlier this year, shop job. B Polish & Blitz wax. F Printed apron cards. G Polished metal ball guides & shields. 12 New repro plastics on top PF (lower PF plastics looked good enough, are simple black w/ white star dots, & not very visible). 16 Reduced re-entry gate coil buzz. 21 All 6 displays look great. 22 Backglasses look great. 1 3-4 flaky light bulb sockets. 2 Cabinet has water damage–lower panel is a bit crunchy but intact. Left panel is a little warped near the rear water damage? 3 Cabinet was hand painted. Pretty good, but not as crisp as a stencil job. Painter stuck a sticker above coin door. 4 PFs have some planking, clearcoat cracking, & minor wear (ex: around pops, & at right outlane at tube re-entry, which I covered w/ mylar to prevent more wear). 5 Lower PF gate mech, & its remote drive transistor, had been removed. I got/re-made all necessary parts but never finished rebuilding & installing–a rubber band is holding the gate open. Game plays OK as-is; gate is there for when 2 lower PF balls drain at the same time, but I never had an issue in this scenario. 6 Tilt isn’t tuned in quite right. Either too insensitive or too sensitive. 7 VUK tube lift from lower to upper PF used to occasionally not fire or take 2 tries to succeed. I think I’ve got that ironed out–dozen of kick-ups in a row without incident. Mech has a generic replacement coil installed before I got it. 8 Lower PF saucer used to occasionally not register a lock. I think I’ve got that ironed out also–it’s sensitive to the rear legs being too tall. If it sticks, a reboot kicks it out. Switch tests OK in test mode. I bought many new spare & bulletproofing upgrade parts. I didn’t install all, mostly b/c the game has been pretty reliable as-is. 1 Lower PF lift upkicker-PinWiki mod to use flipper coil & EOS switch to tune the coil force. 2 Lower PF lift upkicker-stock config. 3 Lower PF trough gate assembly. B 1X Gate wireform. I recreated it so it should work fine when installed. Tested by hand but not installed. 4 Backbox chase lights. A 2X pot that I grabbed when adding one to the chase light board. You won’t need these. 5 Remote drive transistor upgrades per PinWiki. B 2X 4.7kOhm pull-up resistor. I thought I had more, but I can’t find them right now. 6 5X pop bumper cap repro. A 2 2X GTB-A11151 metal hole liner. For saucer lock holes to prevent wear? B 2X GTB-C15707W White Hole Base Plate & 2X GTB-C15708W White Hole Switch Arm. 11 3X capacitor for pop bumper PCB upgrades. You don’t need these–all pop bumper PCBs have already been upgraded.

Chicago Coin’s Cinema Laurel and Hardy Free Ship Pinball Machine 1976

Cinema by Chicago Coins 1976. Original vintage electromechanical pinball machine. Game is completely gone through by Orange County Pinballs, a full service pinball shop. Game goes through a rigorous refurbishment process and service checklist by professional pinball technicians to make sure it is 100% fully operational and looks great! All electronic boards are inspected, serviced, repaired and any burnt connectors replaced. Fuses are checked and correct fuse values installed (safety issue to prevent damage to the game or a fire). Cabinet vacuumed, outside of cabinet cleaned and inspected for any issues. Playfield is stripped down and all plastics, ramps and mechanisms are cleaned and the playfield is polished. If the game has plastic ramps they are flame polished to restore clarity and appearance. Flippers are rebuilt with new plungers, links and coil stops to ensure the strongest possible flippers. All rubber rings are replaced and all new lightbulbs installed. All switches are checked, adjusted or replaced. All coils and mechanisms are checked, adjusted or replaced. New sheet of tempered playfield glass. Locks with keys for full access inside the machine. Also the location must be tractor trailer accessible.

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