Working & complete (though part of a subassembly is uninstalled), good condition. Lots of spare parts + parts for making the game more robust. A few months ago, low plays since. I have many more high-res photos & a video. Message me to access them. 1 Game plays fast & strong. All switches, coils, & lamps work (some lamps a bit fussy). 4 A previous owner: ground mods were performed. 5 A previous owner: backbox motor replaced w/ 3 RPM motor. 6 A previous owner: power supply capacitors had been replaced. 7 A previous owner: per PinWiki, remote drive for lower PF lift upkicker modded to use a pop bumper board. 8 Per PinWiki, upgraded 6th pop bumper board–other 5 were already upgraded. 9 Per PinWiki, modded lower PF lamp circuit to use 6.3V #44 or #47 bulbs instead of 28V #313 bulbs. 11 Earlier this year, shop job. B Polish & Blitz wax. F Printed apron cards. G Polished metal ball guides & shields. 12 New repro plastics on top PF (lower PF plastics looked good enough, are simple black w/ white star dots, & not very visible). 16 Reduced re-entry gate coil buzz. 21 All 6 displays look great. 22 Backglasses look great. 1 3-4 flaky light bulb sockets. 2 Cabinet has water damage–lower panel is a bit crunchy but intact. Left panel is a little warped near the rear water damage? 3 Cabinet was hand painted. Pretty good, but not as crisp as a stencil job. Painter stuck a sticker above coin door. 4 PFs have some planking, clearcoat cracking, & minor wear (ex: around pops, & at right outlane at tube re-entry, which I covered w/ mylar to prevent more wear). 5 Lower PF gate mech, & its remote drive transistor, had been removed. I got/re-made all necessary parts but never finished rebuilding & installing–a rubber band is holding the gate open. Game plays OK as-is; gate is there for when 2 lower PF balls drain at the same time, but I never had an issue in this scenario. 6 Tilt isn’t tuned in quite right. Either too insensitive or too sensitive. 7 VUK tube lift from lower to upper PF used to occasionally not fire or take 2 tries to succeed. I think I’ve got that ironed out–dozen of kick-ups in a row without incident. Mech has a generic replacement coil installed before I got it. 8 Lower PF saucer used to occasionally not register a lock. I think I’ve got that ironed out also–it’s sensitive to the rear legs being too tall. If it sticks, a reboot kicks it out. Switch tests OK in test mode. I bought many new spare & bulletproofing upgrade parts. I didn’t install all, mostly b/c the game has been pretty reliable as-is. 1 Lower PF lift upkicker-PinWiki mod to use flipper coil & EOS switch to tune the coil force. 2 Lower PF lift upkicker-stock config. 3 Lower PF trough gate assembly. B 1X Gate wireform. I recreated it so it should work fine when installed. Tested by hand but not installed. 4 Backbox chase lights. A 2X pot that I grabbed when adding one to the chase light board. You won’t need these. 5 Remote drive transistor upgrades per PinWiki. B 2X 4.7kOhm pull-up resistor. I thought I had more, but I can’t find them right now. 6 5X pop bumper cap repro. A 2 2X GTB-A11151 metal hole liner. For saucer lock holes to prevent wear? B 2X GTB-C15707W White Hole Base Plate & 2X GTB-C15708W White Hole Switch Arm. 11 3X capacitor for pop bumper PCB upgrades. You don’t need these–all pop bumper PCBs have already been upgraded.
